The breakfasts at the main house of the bed-and-breakfast we stayed at were plentiful each morning. Micaela, the owner, does all the baking of breads, and there was always a spread of cereals, yogurts, fruit meats, and great coffee. We got to meet some of the other guests and particularly a couple from Amsterdam. He was from Holland and his partner from Brazil. They told us about their two teenage children who they had adopted from China many years ago. Both children needed some kind of corrective surgery for cleft palate and one of them has had serious behavioral problems. Talking to the couple it was clear they had hearts of gold. He is a behavioral psychologist, and she does play therapy for children – specifically refugee children. Amazing work.
Andrew and I took a walk through the local area. As the seasons are changing the roads are paved with gorgeous wildflowers, set against what look like ancient low walls. These walls are seen across the landscape and in this area, there are lots of olive trees not yet bearing fruit. It’s very pastoral and the red poppies are incredible.


At our innkeeper’s recommendation, we decided to go on a tour of the Grotte di Castellana, a series of deep caves and grottos that are a major tourist attraction in this area. For good reason. The two-hour tour wound us deep underground through a maze of incredibly high caves, filled with stalagmites and stalactites formed over many millennia and could be the creepiest set for a movie.



Our dinner was at a very popular spot called La Pharmacia – named for the original use of this space. Located in the heart of the old central part of Putignano. The food was plentiful and very hearty local cuisine. For example, I had orecchiette in a rich tomato sauce dotted with rolled meat, and we all shared a purée of fava beans and local vegetables. Clearly the cuisine of Puglia centers on clean fresh ingredients. We are very happy.