Doubtful Sound: Magnificent Silence

On our trip to New Zealand in 2019 we were fortunate to be able to kayak in Milford Sound. That was an incredible experience as the majestic, still-snowcapped peaks surrounded us as we paddled around the pristine water. There was quite a bit of traffic in the sound – a couple of smaller cruise ships, helicopters landing and taking off, and even a few motor boats that made wakes we had to dodge. Totally the opposite experience in our visit this time to Doubtful Sound. The beauty (of a different kind) was there of course, but the traffic wasn’t.

We drove to Manapouri as the gateway to Doubtful Sound. We booked the very last room available that night as there really is only this town and Te Anau close enough to make early boardings for the sound trips. We had to have a sense of humor as the room was spotless with a great view of Lake Manapouri…but the motel was about as dogeared as you can get.

We had a nice dinner at a church that had been converted to a bar/restaurant – aptly called The Church Manapouri. It was once a Presbyterian Church built around 1885 and it seemed that anyone headed on sound outings was there for dinner – it made for a wait while having a drink and a lively meal.

The trip through Doubtful Sound was “as advertised” – an incredible and unique experience for sure. To get there we needed to go by a small ferry-sized boat, then a bus, then a catamaran that cruised the sound itself. The company running the tour (Real NZ) really did a great job.

The sound has many channels and ultimately leads out to the Tasman Sea. We got very lucky and this was a rare day when the water was glassy calm and we even got up close to an island inhabited by seals.