When we travel outside the US, I am always enthralled by the centuries of history and culture that are evident even as modern society encroaches and in many cases overtakes precious remnants of a colorful past. I am thrilled when treasures of ancient history and progressive architecture and inventions of modern era can amicably live side by side…as in places like Malmö and Lund. We got to join a wonderful local guide, Ludvig, for a four hour walking tour of Malmö and it was worth every step. Ludvig has traveled to more than 25 countries and came to settle back in Sweden (his home country) and Malmö eight years ago. He not only knew Swedish history but European and Nordic history and was able to give us some great perspective on Sweden’s role in past global events, but also his own views on where Swedish society is now and where it fits in modern political trends and concerns. Lively conversations abound.
Some of the highlights of the tour:
We gathered initially at the central plaza in Malmö, called Möllevångstorget. This very large square has always been the center of a working class neighborhood and the square has a long, and exciting history that includes political meetings, riots and demonstration marches. Now during the day it is a lively farmer’s market and at night it apparently turns into a meeting place with more pubs than anywhere else in Malmö.
Our next stop was a section of fencing called the “graffiti wall” – it is one of a handful of city-sanctioned areas where street art is heartily encouraged and changes daily. Most of the spray painting is done at night and artists are not bothered when the next creative comes along and paints over their masterpiece. I think that’s pretty cool.
We walked through Folkets Park – the “peoples park” – which is the home to a miniature golf course that sports downsized versions of key Malmö sites; a practice driving course for wee folks (called Cykel Safari) that provides them with rudimentary practice of the “rules of the road”; a mosque-looking building built by a Jewish architect that is actually a concert venue or club of some sort; statues in tribute to key Swedish socialist leaders and poets of the past; and the biggest flower sculpture/fountain I have ever seen! Quite a variety of visuals to take in.
We wandered through most sections of the the city and came across a wide variety of architecture. Some are well-preserved buildings dating back centuries – many have been renovated and converted into different use than the original – a chocolate factory converted into an office building and chocolate museum, for example. Then there are some incredible modern structures – the most notable being the Turning Torso – a neo-futurist residential skyscraper and the tallest building in Scandinavia. We passed through beautiful botanical gardens, admired a windmill that operates annually at a local festival, and walked by a rather imposing metal sculpture that somehow just sprang up in front of a museum – no real explanatory plaque…just put there and…who knows.
The most fascinating part of our tour for me was a community built up right on the waterfront that is totally carbon neutral! Super modern apartments/condos with gardens and solar paneling on top, a senior residency with its own greenhouse, an incredible wooden boardwalk designed for sunning and swimming, and a canal-side set of smaller apartments with gardens and rock sculpture water features nestled throughout. I could live there…
After a wonderful four-hour tour we were very ready for a bit of a break – which we took…but our niece had something special in mind for the latter part of the day – a tour of Lund – the nearby college town where she studied for a few months during college. It was a terrific experience for her and she fell deeply in love with the city and wanted to share it with us…How could we refuse?
The Lund college campus is chock full of buildings from past centuries, and the city is blessed with some beautiful parks and gardens that we wandered through and enjoyed very much. The central cathedral is breathtaking – a fire long ago left a grey/black charring on the outside of the main structure which gave the whole thing a sort of foreboding look. Nonetheless, the overall feel of Lund – despite school being out of session – was vibrant and youthful. I can see why Kayla loves it.
We finished off our very long day of touring with a favorite of Kayla’s – gigantic wraps of falafel from her choice street vendor! We sat and ate on the “sun chairs” (famous with the student set) in the center of town, facing a man-made beach scene in front of a hotel. Different for sure.
Till next time,
Esther
Living La Vida Loca 