
One of the day trips we took from the pueblo of Isinlivi was to the majestic volcano – Cotopaxi. We were so fortunate to have our driver, Byron, take us to the base of the volcano where we registered and engaged with a guide who knows the park and mountain well. If you ever make this trip I’d highly recommend this relatively small extra expense as both the very changeable weather and high altitude warrants having someone who knows how to manage changes along.
The walk up was not particularly difficult as far as the terrain goes, but the altitude did tax our breath so it was a slow pace through the clouds. Once we got to the Refugio – a spartan building that sits on a ridge looking far down the mountain – we got warmed up with hot chocolate and conversation with other hikers. Right behind the building was the bottom of an ice field that extends much farther up the volcano and more experienced climbers do go quite a distance more. There is a point where technical climbing gear is needed – but we were very happy with the “summit” we made.
I was very, very proud and happy that Andrew could do this hike with me. As a two-time cancer survivor and someone who has had altitude sickness in the past, I was a bit concerned before we started that perhaps this level of altitude gain might be more than reasonable for him. NO WAY! Thanks to acclimation in Quito and Isinlivi, and Diamox that we both took, Andrew did great. It is really such a thrill to do these sorts of physical challenges with my life partner, and share the exhilaration of such worldly wonders.
We made our way down (much easier than going up) and on the road leaving the national park we spotted these beautiful wild horses…breathtaking.

Of course we worked up an appetite climbing so we asked Byron to find a place to have lunch – especially to have a taste of “real local” Ecuadorian food. He did. We stopped at a small cafe that looked like walking into the kitchen of the woman running it. We had the choice of a few dishes from a hot table, and she assembled a really full meal for each of us for just a few dollars each. We all got potato soup to start – with a special added ingredient – a cow foot. Apparently this is a delicacy that often is added to homemade broth…Andrew and I offered ours to Byron and he was thrilled!
I actually came to love another version of potato soup – Locro de Papa – thick potato soup with chunks of fresh avocado and white cheese. My mouth waters just thinking about it.

On to the next adventure…