Living La Vida Loca

I was thrilled that Andrew decided that he wanted to experience a Camino – a long walk similar to what Ruthie and I did together last Spring in Spain. Andrew met us a day before we finished last year and walked the last bit with us into Santiago – and he obviously took great joy in seeing the bond we’d built with other pilgrims (the roots of these walks lies in real pilgrimages made for centuries to Catholic holy places) as well as the great sense of accomplishment we each felt. And so we planned our own joint Camino…this one through the French countryside.

I’d hoped to write about each day’s unique aspects but honestly have found myself very fulfilled and very, very tired after some really, really long walking days. So, here I share reflections of the journey at the close as we ride the train back to Barcelona…

Similar, but Different…

The French countryside – much like the varied terrain in northwest Spain – is breathtaking. But it is so different as well. We climbed to significant altitude early on that really was hiking versus walking – all the more taxing in rain and mud! While I’d heartily recommend the Camino we did last Spring to most folks who are in decent physical shape, this path in France is really tougher. I am so proud of Andrew and frankly of myself, for meeting this challenge. There were a number of places where the path got both muddy and steep, and the inclines go on for quite a distance. But the payoff always was incredible scenery. Vast open fields of wildflowers, deep forests providing lovely cover to the walking path, mare and young foal, ancient chapels overlooking amazing valleys, and on and on. The etapes – or stages – of this Camino are longer as well. We walked between 23 and nearly 30 km each day! It is possible to walk less each day but the choices of where to stay in the smaller villages along the way are more limited. That said, the gites ( the French version of albergues where there are shared sleeping accommodations and communal meals at a low cost) appear to be very lovely – many built in renovated old castles and homes. We chose to stay in more hotel or B & B type places and all were very comfortable though more pricey. We agreed up front that having our own room and bathroom was important to us after long days, but those who have been staying in the gites have enjoyed them a lot.

It’s Always About the People

As Ruth and I found a great group of travelers at the outset of our Camino, so Andrew and I were blessed with connecting to an incredible band of fellow walkers. At the first night gathering hosted by veteran pilgrims in our origination spot, we tagged along for a dinner that was spontaneously organized, and we got to talking with a group of people at the table and we seemed to click. The next morning we were seven…Beatrice, Celine, Cecile, Marcus and Christopher – and us. Beatrice and Celine were together from Paris, Cecile from Bordeaux, Marcus from Munich, and Christopher from Wimbledon (England). Later in our trip Cecile’s boyfriend, Hugues, joined us and all the merrier we became as eight.

What an amazing group! Beatrice and Celine are in their late 20’s/early 30’s and are long time companions. Beatrice is in marketing for a liquor manufacturer and has a delightful sense of fun and humor. She was nicknamed (self-proclaimed) at various points Princess Fiona (think Shrek), then Le Petit Chat, and once a painful knee set in she became “Wooden Leg”…a mischievous spirit. Celine is a journalist for Paris news who is on air from 4.30am! She too has a strong spirit and a kind nature. After the first day or so Beatrice was having such knee pain that the two ladies had to slow down and take a respite. But they caught up with us a few nights later and it was a grand reunion! I had some long talks with Beatrice about our shared desire to “find our muse” – what we each really want to do in life…and what the Camino allows us time to reflect on. She reminds me very much of Ruthie – a powerful, creative, robust spirit who will make whatever she pursues happen successfully…as with each of us, getting to that special place takes it’s own unique time, and we talked a lot about how life experiences are the real building blocks of finding one’s own definition of success. I have had similar discussions with Ruthie – I want them to connect. Celine is a great counterbalance to Beatrice – super smart, professionally accomplished as well, and delightfully even tempered and warm. I hope to have more chances to get to know her better as time goes on.

Cecile is a paralegal and one of the fittest of our group for these long treks. She loves to walk and does so with a trainer regularly at home so we had trouble keeping her pace. She has two teenagers and is now with Hugues who also has kids…they have known each other for five years and he met up with Cecile after a few days to walk along with her…and us.   He immediately fit into our crazy group. An owner of recycling companies, he loves good food, good drink, and a good laugh. Andrew and I were quickly recruited by Cecile to convince Hugues that a visit to Barcelona was a great idea and I think we managed to convince him after sharing many pictures and stories of our beloved city. Cecile became the master organizer for our group and we are convinced she should be a travel agent. Some of the group decided to not book ahead as their Camino plans are much longer and didn’t know exactly what their pace would be…When we all agreed it would be fun to stay together along the way Cecile as a native French speaker helped tremendously with making additional bookings to keep us whole.

Marcus is from Munich…we nicknamed him Shrek (a gentle giant) right at the outset which he didn’t like much but took it in good stride – he is very tall and one of the kindest, most introspective, sensitive and giving people I have ever met. He is married with two gorgeous twins – and we all will visit him and his family to celebrate his birthday in August. I had a chance to really talk to Marcus along the way about many things that created a great friendship I already cherish very much. I am excited to see what Marcus’s next life venture will be…he’s been super successful at building businesses in the past and is now using his Camino to sort through what he really wants to devote himself to in the next stage of his very full life. He reminds me of Andrew in some ways….full of great ideas and passion – with the capacity to turn dreams into reality with just a bit of focus. It will be a great story to follow.

Christopher is a hearty and warm Englishman who is incredibly well-traveled…he was a biology teacher and then school administrator for many years and is now retired. He has trekked to the Everest base camp, been to Machu Picchu, explored the Galápagos Islands, and much more. He is a veteran long distance walker and set the faster pace even as he is in his early 70’s. Christopher had done these trips in the past with groups – this Camino he set out on his own, much to the chagrin of his family. However, he kept sending greetings and photos back home and apparently eased the concerns there when they saw that he is now the young-at-heart senior statesman and pace-setting role model for the rest of us!

As I write these descriptions of this special collection of souls, I realize that a gathering of such good people is a gift to Andrew and I.

How Can I Ever Remember All the Great Moments???

I can’t….had I been less tired each night I might have been able to capture more of the many “Camino moments” that I will remember fondly but cannot really replicate here. Things like the round robin of offering up our favorite walking songs and hearing Marcus serenade us with an Italian aria…even more humorous coming from a 6 foot something German guy with a beard and bandana!… Or how about capturing a video of a donkey using a tree for a back scratcher? Or better yet, the banter of swearing and muttering that went on when we were SURE we were almost at our destination, and the road just went on and on and on…? Darn those totally inaccurate km maps!! Andrew and I decided that there was a very clear moment toward the end of each day that our feet and legs said “OK, you need to be done NOW!”

Our Resting Spots Along the Way

We were very fortunate to have booked into a nice variety of places along our route – we stayed in a simple but spotless budget hotel when we arrived in Le Puy en Velay, and the other nights we were in anything from a B & B type small hotel to old farmhouses that have been stylishly converted into small getaways with real personalities that reflect the region they are in. We found that booking ahead was wise as the number and variety of places to stay is more limited on this route than in Spain, and given how tired we have been, taking the plan of dinner and breakfast at each stop proved a great idea. Overall the food was plentiful and tasty – local produce, wine, a French cheese plank course, and yummy desserts were standard. We may be doing a lot of calorie-burning but losing weight on this trip may well be a joke. Viva la Vida!!!

The Challenges…And the Accomplishments

For me, the greatest challenge on this Camino was staying “in the moment”. Sure, some of the days were physically challenging – but I always knew I could get through them I think from both prior experience as well as having prepared to push myself in this way. Being with a group that fully respected our varying paces and mutually encouraged each other was awesome as well. But in the first couple of days I had to work hard to completely disengage from thinking about the everyday work and life logistics…things other than the road ahead, the people I was with, and the opportunity to listen to my own thoughts about who I am and what I aspire to be in the next stage of my life. I feel as though I succeeded to a great extent. The pinnacle of that experience was lying in an open field high atop a gorgeous expanse of rolling hills with the group sprawled around – and just enjoying the beauty, the calm, and the companionship.

I thought that documenting many of the funny antics and episodes we had on this trip (and there were a few) would fill this blog entry…but somehow looking back now I feel protective of them and know that they will be retold among our group when we reunite over time.   The true aesthetic beauty of the road we traveled will speak for itself in the photos we already are and will continue to share public ally and privately…so what is left is what I have reflected here, with the intent to encourage others I care about to consider taking a journey like this – if the spirit move you.

Onward!