This was 22kms of green and emerging sunshine. Out of dreary clouds and rain and into rolling fields of green pastures and farm animals.
The first half was more of a climb than we’d expected! It was real work and when we reached a lone cafe midpoint along with many other pilgrims (traffic on the Way is heating up) we snarfed down big bocadillos and chocolate filled mini cookies!
The rest of the day was gentle walking. I spent time talking with women from northern Spain – two sisters and their friend. The friend and I did a long intercambio – she practicing English and I my Spanish. She at 50 had lost her job and was musing about being too tired to reinvent herself. We spoke about the Crisis, about Catalunya’s striving to be independent (she had strong feelings that this was a very bad idea), and compared notes on the causes (everyone agrees it is corrupt politicians) and possible solutions (no clear ones) for Spain’s current state of affairs.
The albergue we stayed at was really a private house converted to a small pension…a handful of private rooms sharing a few full bathrooms, a communal kitchen, small terrace and dining area. The owner is a young woman – Fanny – who could not be sweeter. She decorated the place with cool artwork, soft wall colors, modern bed sheets…much more like a B&B than a pilgrim spot. Cost? 29eu for the night and 3eu each for breakfast. So nice.
We rested the afternoon and then found a great Italian restaurant around the corner. The owner employees pilgrims who have finished their walk and want to give back to the community. He requires at least 15 days of service and provides food (and board?) in exchange. He hopes to add an albergue next year. The food was awesome and plentiful.
Before leaving the restaurant we spotted 3 guys from Holland we’d chatted with on the road…middle aged buddies on a break together. They were showing off haircuts and beard trims they’d just gotten in Sarria – looking all cleaned up and nearly dapper.
Until mañana….
Living La Vida Loca 