Living La Vida Loca

Wow! Talk about a change in scenery!!! We dressed for wet and cold leaving Rabanal, but we had no idea that the climb we were about to do would bring us into the clouds that turned rain to snow. We had seen what looked like snow dusting waaaay up on the hills…warning? Anyway, the waterproof gear we brought – plastic pants and tops, backpack covers, and water resistant sprayed trainers – earned their keep. We went from meandering rolling hills to a slog … reaching the pinnacle was a beautiful but cold and muddy affair. It was sweet on the way starting the climb to run into Chad and Rebecca (mom and son from SoCal) and we crossed paths all day as we kept different paces.

Before actually doing the last push to the top, we stopped to warm up in a singular cafe that was literally in the clouds…and we were reunited with Haiku and Hilmar! Haiku’s knee was much better and it was really sweet to feel like we were with old friends again.

We all left in dribs and drabs to face the wet climb to the Iron Cross (gotta tell you it is a little weird as a Jewish woman having landmarks like this)…but it was a very moving moment for me as I used a rock given to me by an acquaintance in Barcelona to cast off what shades of bad karma and painful feelings I had with this stone and prayer. Introspection knows no religious bounds.

It was a long messy road to lunch…out of the clouds and into green hills. Big bocadillos awaited us. Weary and wet friends…our whole original band of characters, ended up taking over the back area of a cafe bar and warming by a small but toasty fire.

By the time we dried out a bit it was pouring rain and there was a bit of a race for cabs and places at the albergue we fortunately had called ahead and reserved. We connected with Lena – a warm young woman from Denmark – traveling alone to figure out her next chapter. Ruth really bonded with her and they traded stories of how they were both vegetarians of varying degrees for different reasons (Lena is actually a vegan), and we had dinner together in a nearby restaurant run by Javier who literally waited on us hand and foot, tailored the pilgrim menu to work for each of us, made sangria especially for the occasion, and even his waiter sidekick appeared with sal (salt) for Ruth practically before she asked for it! Javier then introduced us to his two gorgeous little kids and wife. We have been blessed with mostly kindness and patience along our Way.

Roo and I bunked up at our first albergue…she on top and me underneath. Ten pilgrims in the room, communal but very clean showers and bathrooms…and a German guy named Mike who had no qualms about parading around in black jockeys. Interesting. The only natty moments revolved around too many pilgrims with too much washing and drying to do in only a couple of machines. We opted to stay out of this fray and are still on the lookout for a better way to clean some essentials than a blow dryer or wall heater! Wish us luck.

And we headed to bed – let the snoring begin.