We are finally settled in our new flat in the “Zona Alta”  (Upper/High Zone) and actually developing something that resembles a routine – with still a lot of new discovery thrown in.  So much has happened in the last few weeks  I won’t even try to recap…suffice it to say that we literally moved from one world to another – both integral parts of the magnificent city that is Barcelona.   Let me explain.

The area we lived in for the summer – el Born – is right in the heart of original Barcelona…a stone’s throw from the beach, a few steps from the popular and super-touristic Gothic district,  a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys chock full of small markets, shops, pubs, cafes, bakeries, gelaterias – you name it.  Around nearly every corner there is a small museum, a centuries-old church, plazas large and small that have been gathering places for the local communities forever…and a gritty feel that only comes with age.  Not dirty – gritty, well-worn, smelling of stories that have been told through so many generations….and crowded 24/7 with the sound of clicking cameras, maps rustling, late night partying, and evening streets filled with tattooed 20-somethings from all over the world looking for the best bar, the coolest drinks, the cheapest tapas, and a real good time.  This was truly fun for the summer (though we did start to feel really old), and I have not one moment of regret getting to know this face of Barcelona.  This is where we will send first-timers to the city to get a true sense of the history, the grandeur, and the pulse of the Catalan culture (aside from the tourists, of course).    There are so many hidden gems in el Born that we didn’t even get to try and plan to go back and hit:  Roman baths where you enter in silence to experience an ancient ritual bath setting…the famous Picasso Museum (we lived literally around the corner from it and the lines to get in were so long all summer we decided to wait and take winter visitors there)…on and on it goes.

We have now relocated to an area called Tres Torres (Three Towers – not sure why – need to research) in the northern part of the city – generally known as Zona Alta.  The sections of the city in Zona Alta – Gracia, Tres Torres, Sarria, Pedralbes, Turo Park, to name a few, are districts that were annexed into the proper city of Barcelona as the population expanded.   Some of the districts have unique “personalities” that we are having fun discovering,  and most (not all) have much more new construction (like the last 100 years rather than centuries ago).  It is much more like living in a modern urban city extension than living in another century!  Streets are wide, traffic is plentiful but generally flows well thanks to really swift roundabouts and well- maintained roads and signals…lots of green space peppered throughout the neighborhoods and terrific bike paths that get you from one end of the city to the other without fearing for your life…both local merchants and a couple of large shopping centers easily accessible by metro, tram or public bus (and we do LOTS of walking as well)…very very good gym facilities in each of the districts – some city-run, others privately run chains…and while the density and volume of cafes and other daily services is less than in el Born, there is plenty and most within walking distance.  We have our local markets (expensive, cheap and cheaper), local cafes  with wifi (whew!),  some upscale restaurants, and soooo many teenage girls it’s hilarous!   A few things are totally apparent here:

1. This is the place that  multinational companies relocate their executives to
2. Many of them have wives – or  in some cases – husbands – who “lunch”
3. MANY of them have teenagers they have brought along for the international experience (did they have a choice?)
4. Teenage girls are all the same anywhere.

I am digressing but it’s a must.  It is a pretty humorous sight at about 5pm each day – after all the kids are out of school and should be doing homework (sigh), that there are a couple of locations in particular near where we live that are magnets for the 14 – 18 year old set to congregate and do their version of Hanging Out.  And in this case, it’s both literal and figurative.  The current Spanish teen girl uniform is:

1. VERY short shorts –  preferably extremely faded and ripped jean shorts, low riding preferred
2. Pockets of the said shorts need to hang below the bottom of the shorts – or the shorts are just not short enough
3. Ankle boots – usually suede,  usually beige or light brown, with as many buckles and/or wrapping things as possible
4. Tshirt with bra  straps showing underneath (the layered look?)
5. Long, straight  hair parted in the middle and at least  halfway down the back
6. Blackberry (preferable to have a pink cover)

…We have yet to get a straight answer out of Eitan about his take on this particular aspect of our transition – however, no complaints to date!

Eitan has started school and is making friends from many countries and becoming so much more independent and mature – it’s a joy to watch.  Andrew and I start Spanish lessons next week – he from ground zero, me to beef up my grammar and vocabulary.  We are both working and making time to peek into museums, try new restaurants, cultivate new friendships, and figure out how to balance our lives here.

I’ll keep you posted!